Benachin: A cherished Gambian dish at risk
Overfishing, climate pressures, and changing diets threaten a culinary icon
This week, we have a guest writer!
At the start of this year, I said I’m looking to commission food systems stories and musings and that I will offer 300 Euros per piece (for 1,000 to 2,000 words), and voila, here we are.
I didn’t know much about The Gambia before Mustapha pitched me this story, except that it occupies a narrow sliver of land in West Africa and is surrounded by Senegal, and that it brought the historic genocide case against Myanmar at the International Court of Justice.
The closest I’d been to the country - and West Africa - was an unscheduled stop our plane made in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire, which Google tells me is over 2,000km away. So not near at all really. Did I also tell you that the flight was from Niamey, Niger, to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia?
Anyway, I’d always been fascinated by the region and at one point wanted to work from Dakar, Senegal, so I ate - and worried - vicariously through Mustapha's piece.
If you have any other ideas or know anyone who does, do drop me a line: thin@thin-ink.net.
Oh and I’m keen to do something on the EU’s “Vision for Agriculture & Food” next week so if you have any insights to share, please email me those too.
By Mustapha Maneh
Have you ever heard the name Thieboudienne or the term Benachin? They refer to the same traditional Senegambian dish, originally tied to the Wolof people.
Senegambia is a portmanteau of the names of two neighbouring countries - Gambia and Senegal - that share close cultural, traditional, and historical connections. I always say Gambia and Senegal are the same people divided by white colonial masters.
Benachin, also known as Jolof rice, is an iconic meal featuring fluffy, tender rice enveloped by a colorful array of fresh vegetables and morsels of succulent fish, chicken, or beef.
The traditional protein of choice is sardinnela (also spelled “sardinella”). The dish can be prepared in white and red varieties, with the signature tomato paste giving the latter a vivid red hue. Its complexity is heightened by locally sourced ingredients and traditional cooking methods.
Benachin is eaten as a main meal. In Gambia, we can eat it for lunch and dinner and eat the leftovers the following day as breakfast. We never get enough of it.
“It’s a dish that can’t be left out of any cultural occasion,” Saikou Bojang, an award-winning Gambian chef, has said.
Growing up, all I wished for lunch was benachin and because it is a dish that requires plenty of time and patience, I thought only the affluent could indulge in it. We even used to joke also that if you smell benachin in any compound, you know they have a wealthy relative in Europe or America sending them some cash.
I’m a member of the Mandinka tribe, and during visits to my friends from the Wolof and Serer communities, I’m certain my eyes sparkled every time they alighted on the steaming platters of Benachin.
What makes Benachin special is how it transcends the boundaries beyond Senegambia where it was originally found. Today, you’ll find variations of Benachin throughout West Africa. In Nigeria and Ghana, it is known as Jollof rice. Despite its many variations, the heart of the dish remains the same: rice, vegetables, and either fish or meat.
However, this dish in its original form is now in danger of disappearing as a result of a potent brew of challenges: overfishing of sardinnela, climate change, and Western cultural influences.
In The Gambia, sardinnela is not only integral to our traditional diets and culinary practices but also serves a critical role in our health. It is rich in omega-3 and a key source of nutrition for coastal communities.
The delightful sound of sardines gently sizzling in the pot used to be part and parcel of Benachin and the presence of the fish also reflects the deep-rooted relationship between our people and the sea. Unfortunately, this vital resource is currently under threat due to increasing international investments that affect our local fisheries.
The booming fishmeal and oil industry in The Gambia, which processes 500 tonnes of small pelagic fish daily, primarily sardinella, to produce fishmeal and oil, is the main contributor to its overexploitation. Fishmeal is a key component of the global aquaculture industry, whose primary products often grace the dinner plates of affluent diners while robbing poor communities of their historical nutritional resource.
The threat is not limited to Gambia.
“Today, more than 50 processing plants operate along the shores of Mauritania, Senegal, Guinea Bissau, and The Gambia,” said Client Earth in a 2023 briefing. "Yearly, this represents over half a million tonne of sardinella and other small fish – which impacts the millions of consumers in the region."
Greenpeace has been calling for changes since 2019. Its report, A Waste of Fish, said “urgent action” is needed “to reduce the intensity of fishing in the region to environmentally sustainable levels and ensure that it first and foremost meets the food security and livelihood needs of local populations and fishing communities.”
Overfishing (both legal and illegal) as well as climate change also contributes to the diminishing use of two key and unique components of benachin: smelly dry fish and snails.
West Africa’s sea surface temperatures have been rising and this is associated with decreases in the body sizes of fish as well as changes in the make up of species. Gambian fishermen have also been complaining about decreasing catch of sardinnela for years now. A 2016 paper predicted that climate change could reduce fish catch in Gambia by 15% to 30%.
The locals dry fish only when they have enough, so when there isn’t enough supply, they don’t use this method of preservation.
This is unfortunate as these unique ingredients imbue the dish with an unparalleled depth of flavor, an essential element that, if omitted, dulls the dish’s authentic taste and overall experience.
Our communities’ dietary habits are also changing. These days, most supermarkets and restaurants are filled with Western processed foods that are cheaper and easier to prepare but, I believe, are less nutritious.
All of this has led sardinnela’s prices to rise. It now costs Gambian Dalasi 50 (about $0.70) for four fish compared to D10 (about $0.14) seven years ago, making it increasingly out of reach for many ordinary Gambians. This alarming decline in the availability of sardinnela poses a significant risk to this traditional diet, raising concerns about food security and the preservation of our culinary identity.
Beyond the impact on diets, the prevalence of industrial trawlers has also affected traditional artisanal fishermen who do not have the resources to compete, further accelerating the migration of men out of West African coastal communities, according to observers.
In light of these challenges, many in our communities are resorting to substituting sardinnela with chicken, most of which are frozen and imported, their origins unclear. While this shift may address immediate dietary needs, it also raises questions about the long-term implications for our culture and nutrition.
This is a dish that has its roots in the historic Senegambian region and is closely linked to the illustrious Wolof or Jolof Empire of the 14th century. In fact, the term "Benachin" derives from the Wolof language, translating literally to “one pot,” an apt description of its preparation method.
Traditionally, all the ingredients come together in a single pot, allowing flavors to meld and develop into a robust, mouthwatering dish that embodies the essence of communal cooking.
This Empire left behind a rich culinary legacy that continues to shape modern interpretations of the dish throughout Senegal, Gambia, and Mauritania. But now we find ourselves at a critical turning point for this dish, and I can’t help but wonder if our other culinary delights will face similar challenges in the future.
You see, traditionally, every tribe in the Senegambia region has its signature dish, tied to its culture and identity.
For example, domoda is a popular peanut stew from Gambia served with rice or couscous. It belongs to my tribe, the Mandinkas. Made from ground peanuts, onions, garlic, and tomato sauce, it is cooked with meat, vegetables, and spices. There are also versions with fish or just vegetables.
Nyankatan, meanwhile, is a well-loved delicacy, particularly among the Jola ethnic group. It highlights the rich flavors of smoked fish, dried okra, and palm oil. Fouti is a traditional dish mainly linked to the Fula tribe and is made of okra, large eggplants, eggs, lime, and sardines in all its forms (fresh, dried, or fish powder), together with spices. It's a quick, easy, affordable meal requiring little time and money.
I understand the future of Gambia's culinary heritage rests on the delicate balance between maintaining tradition and adapting to modern influences. But my worries remain.
Will these dishes face the same fate? Will the future generations ever know the rich, oily flavor that defines benachin? I refuse to accept this is inevitable. I believe we must unite to protect and celebrate what makes benachin extraordinary and both its cultural and nutritional role.
Thin’s Pickings
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